So, you’re considering a cover-up for your existing permanent makeup (PMU)? It’s a common request, and while it’s often possible to refresh or reshape brows, lips, or eyeliner, it’s crucial to understand the realities of covering previous work.
This isn’t like starting with a clean canvas; it’s more like painting over an existing painting – you can change the image, but the original is still underneath.
What You Need to Know: It’s Not Removal
The most important thing to grasp is this: working over old PMU does not remove the existing pigment. Even if the old work is barely visible, the pigment is still present in your skin. Applying new pigment simply adds to what’s already there, creating a layered effect. This means you should adjust your expectations; a completely natural, fresh-from-scratch result is unlikely.
The Reality of Cover-Ups: Forget “Natural”
Clients often come in with a picture of perfect, fluffy brows or perfectly lined eyes, hoping to replicate that look. They envision having the same results they had when they first got their PMU or the look they see on the artist’s Instagram. However, with pre-existing pigment, this is simply not achievable. The old pigment will inevitably influence the new color, making the overall result more saturated and less subtle.
Because of this, you need to find an artist willing to use a lower tone with more opacity. This helps to neutralize the old color and create a more even base for the new design. But even with the right approach, the result won’t be as crisp or delicate as a first-time procedure.
Technique, Trauma, and Scar Tissue: Added Challenges
Cover-ups are further complicated by the techniques and needles used in the original PMU procedure. A previous artist’s “heavy hand” can cause significant trauma to the skin, leading to thickening and even scar tissue. This scar tissue, whether visible or not, significantly impacts the skin’s ability to retain new pigment.
Techniques like microblading, which involves creating fine cuts in the skin, are particularly problematic over existing scar tissue. Trying to microblade over old, scarred areas is often nearly impossible. The thickened skin resists pigment implantation, and repeatedly cutting over the same area to force pigment in only causes more trauma and ultimately, poor retention. It’s simply not worth torturing the client for minimal to no results.
Shading Techniques: A Potential Solution (with Caveats)
In many cover-up situations, a shading technique offers a higher likelihood of successful pigmentation. Shading, done correctly, can be less traumatic to the skin than other methods. However, simply using a shading machine isn’t enough. Without proper technique, the result can be patchy, with areas of uneven color saturation.
This is where understanding and utilizing pointillism is crucial. Pointillism, a technique involving tiny dots of pigment, allows for controlled pigment deposition with minimal trauma when performed with the correct pressure and needle. It requires patience, as it’s a more time-consuming process.
However, pointillism has its own challenges. The effect tends to be “cooler,” meaning the implanted pigment can appear greener, bluer, or grayer, especially initially. This is important to consider when choosing pigment colors. Also, it’s crucial to allow the skin to rest during the procedure, giving the pigment time to surface so the artist can accurately assess the color saturation. Overdoing pointillism can lead to over-saturation, causing the treated areas to heal much darker than intended while the surrounding skin lightens during healing.
Addressing Symmetry and Shape: A Balancing Act
Another common concern is asymmetry. Many clients come in with brows that are uneven in thickness, length, arch, or color. This can be due to previous techniques, lack of proper mapping during the initial procedure, or even natural facial asymmetry.
In a cover-up situation, the artist has to make a crucial decision: choose one brow as a guide and balance the other side to match as closely as possible. It’s not always a matter of simply adding a little here and there. It requires careful mapping, considering your facial structure and features to create the most harmonious result. Sometimes, the client’s ideal symmetry is simply unachievable with a cover-up, and the artist may recommend laser removal or manual removal as a better option.
Aging and Skin Changes: Adding Complexity
Time also plays a significant role. Since the initial PMU procedure, you’ve aged. Your skin may have become thinner, more wrinkled, or experienced changes in elasticity. These factors further complicate the process of mapping and balancing the brows (or other areas) to meet high expectations. What looked perfect years ago may not suit your current facial structure.
Can a Cover-Up Be Perfect?
The short answer is: it depends. While a cover-up can certainly improve the appearance of old PMU, “perfect” is a subjective term and depends heavily on the individual circumstances. The type of pigment used in the original procedure, the technique employed, the degree of fading, and the client’s skin condition all play a significant role in the outcome.
Key Takeaways:
- Covering old PMU adds to existing pigment; it doesn’t remove it.
- A completely natural, fresh result is unlikely with a cover-up.
- Expect a more saturated and less subtle outcome.
- Previous technique, trauma, and scar tissue significantly impact results.
- Symmetry can be challenging to achieve, requiring careful balancing.
- Aging and skin changes add complexity to the process.
- Manage your expectations and be open to the artist’s recommendations.
Before committing to a cover-up, have a thorough consultation with a reputable PMU artist. Discuss your goals, listen to their professional assessment, and understand the limitations of the procedure. This will help you make an informed decision and avoid disappointment.
Comment below if you have questions about covering up previous permanent makeup!
~Ambar
Leave a Reply